Birthday in Tuscany: When Plan B is Perfect
Florence at dusk, with the Arno River, Ponte Vecchio, and Duomo creating a timeless panorama from Piazzale Michelangelo
Another perfect morning at our Tuscan villa! While Carl and Monte took their 2 km walk into Settignano for cappuccinos and pastries—winding through ancient olive groves with stunning views of Florence below—Patricia and I embraced the lazy morning at the villa, watching rain clouds gather over the hills. With the forecast predicting a wet day ahead, we decided to stay home and save our energy for a special birthday dinner in Florence.
Our friend Franco (the leather shop owner we'd met earlier in Florence) had recommended the popular Sabatini steakhouse and called the owner to secure his favorite table in the intimate “Delia” room for us at 8:00 PM. We started with an assortment of cheeses, honey, fig jam and bread. All delicious. We then shared homemade tagliatelle with Tuscan meat sauce and homemade tagliatelle with porcini mushrooms. For the record, I am NOT a mushroom fan so I steered away from this one as did Patricia, but the guys loved it. Both were absolutely divine, but we tried not to overindulge as we all had steaks coming.
Birthday dinner at Sabatini
Carl, Monte and I all had the Costata di Bistecca alla Fiorentina (Grilled rib steak) and Patricia had the Filetto di Scottona alla griglia (Grilled filet). We also ordered some roasted potatoes for the table. Patricia’s steak was delicious and tender, however, our Fiorentina’s were all quite tough and overly salted. That was such a shame as we had had such delicious steaks the day before. It was still a wonderful evening with an amazing red wine and great atmosphere.
We called it a night and went back to watch the next episode of Drops of God… it just keeps getting better and better.
Friday we lounged around the Villa and Monte and Carl again went into town to get cappuccinos and pastries and brought some home for us. We then headed into town for our pasta making class, which included a lunch of everything we make during class. It was near the Duomo, so we parked and made the 20 minute or so walk to the restaurant. We were in line and ready to check in only to find out that our class is Sunday, not Friday. Somehow, I got it in my head that it was on the 20th, oh no, it wasn’t. I’m usually pretty good at these things so it was surprising for all of us (and perhaps a bit embarrassing for me.)
Some of the fine cuisine at Sabatini - photo courtesy of restaurant
Oh well, it was time to make limoncello out of lemons and we headed out to find lunch! We found a great spot, I Ghibellini, right next to the class location and Monte, Patricia and I all ordered pizzas and Carl got tagliatelle ragu. Everything was delicious including the Limoncello Spritzes Patricia and I had, and Carl had a Negroni that was also tasty. Our server playfully teased Monte about ordering a Coca-Cola, giving him that classic Italian mock-disapproval that had us all laughing.
Lunch at I Ghibellini • Florence
Continuing to make the best of a day gone sideways, it seemed like a good time to do some shopping, so off we went! Looking for hats and belts, we wandered down various side streets to vendors and found a couple of good selections. Sunglasses up next and oh my, plenty of good choices!
We then headed towards Ponte Vecchio for more shopping. We found an amazing paper shop and found some beautiful stationery and cards for some gifts back home. We then stumbled upon Enoteca Obsequium Wine Shop—its weathered wooden shelves stacked floor-to-ceiling with bottles from every corner of Italy—that also had Limoncello, Olive Oil and Sambuca, all of which we decided we needed. After our Limoncello Spritzes, we decided we needed to have the fixins' to make those ourselves. Carl is a fan of Sambuca and we found a recommended bottle from an Italian distillery that has been around for over a century, Sambuca Secolare. Patricia spied a familiar (and exceptional) brand of olive oil that we knew we could enjoy with our breads and cheeses. We also snagged a good bottle of Prosecco for the aforementioned Spritzes and were on our way out to head back to the car and call it a day.
Ponte Vecchio along the Arno River
Enoteca Obsequium Wine Shop - photo courtesy of the shop
Well, as is often the case (and delightfully so) Carl got engaged in a fascinating conversation with the proprietor of the shop. You see, Carl had been given a recommendation from our friend Stuart about a wine that we must absolutely try if we had the opportunity - Sassicaia. They actually had a bottle in their shop for $480€!! Most definitely out of our price range (we had also seen it on the menu at dinner the night before for $680€!). As Carl asked about more affordable alternatives with similar taste, the owner shared an amazing story about how Sassicaia started as an experimental wine in the 1940s by a curious nobleman who thought Bordeaux-style wines could be made in Tuscany. When it was first released commercially in 1968, it cost about the same as a nice Chianti! The wine's reputation absolutely exploded over the years—it basically created its own wine classification and now routinely sells for hundreds of euros per bottle. Stuart had told Carl this particular vintage would probably be worth double what we saw in just a few years... totally mind-blowing! The conversation evolved with Carl buying one of the recommended (yet affordable) options for us to enjoy later.
We worked our way back to the parking garage and headed “home” where we enjoyed reheated leftover pizza (drizzled with some of the delicious olive oil) and red wine. Yes, again, another episode (ok, two) of Drops of God and a good nights rest.
Next Day
Brunch at the Villa!
Since the weather was predicted (accurately) to be sunny and warm on Saturday, Patricia and I decided it would be a good “pool day.” Since we had some wonderful leftovers of roasted potatoes and Patrica’s filet, I decided it would be a good time for a Saturday brunch before pool time. I made an egg scramble with sauteed onion, red pepper, ham, pecorino and toscana cheeses. Accompanied by potatoes with pecorino cheese, steak, fried prosciutto, toast, yogurt with fruit, jam and my leftover crumbled chocolate chip cookies that I brought with us and of course, Mimosa’s!
We ate “al fresco” on the patio looking at the amazing view and feeling so incredibly blessed to be in such a wonderful place enjoying a delicious meal (if I may say so myself) with terrific friends.
After our meal, the guys cleaned up for us and headed out for more provisions while Patricia and I gathered our supplies for a day at the pool. It is sunny and warm (around 74 degrees) and the setting is magnificent. After Monte and Carl returned (with a wonderful haul of goodies) Monte made Patricia and I Limoncello Spritzes (remember how we enjoyed them the day before?) Well, we were looking for those to be replicated, and boy were they! Deliziosa!
Carl was able to secure a dinner reservation at a nearby restaurant in Fiesole, Terrazzo 45, that I had found on Tripadvisor that had amazing reviews. It also meant we didn’t have to drive all the way into Florence. Florence is only about 5 miles away but takes about a half hour and then need to find parking, etc. We all wanted something a little closer to “home.”
Terrazzo 45 was hands down the best meal we have had so far! Carl managed to score a table on the rooftop terrace overlooking Florence. Magnifico!
At Terrazzo 45 - Table with an amazing view of Florence!
We started with drinks, me a Hugo which contains Prosecco, Sciroppo di fiori di sambuco e melissa (this is a combination of Elderflower syrup, lemon balm and mint), soda, fresh mint leaves and lime. Super refreshing and tasty. Patricia had an Aperol Spritz and Carl a Negroni. Monte had a Coca-Cola (he was our DD for the evening).
For our starters, we enjoyed Inostri Coccoli Proscuitto Toscano E Stracchino, or, typical Tuscan fried dough “Coccoli” with ham and stracchino cheese, which is soft and creamy. Our second appetizer was Fiori Di Zucca Ripieni Di Ricotta Con Proscuitto Crudo E Mustarda Di Fichi, or, Courgette (Zucchini) flowers stuffed with ricotta with raw ham and fig mustard. Both of these were absolutely exquisite! Not even a single bit of drop of jam left!!
For our Primi, we ordered three pasta dishes; Tagliolini Al Tartufo, or, Black Truffle Tagliolini, then, Inostri Gnocchi “Fatti In Casa” Cacio, Pepe E Tartufo, or, Our “homemade” gnocchi with cheese pepper and truffle (this was Patricia’s main course that she kindly shared with all of us) then, lastly, Gnocchi “Fatti In Casa” Agli Scampi, or, Fresh, “homemade” Gnocchetti with Prawns. The moaning and groaning over these dishes was palpable, simply unmatched in flavor, creaminess and luxuriousness.
For our Secondi Piatti Monte and I had the Baccala’ Fritto in Tempura Con Maionese All’aglio, or, cod fired in tempura with garlic mayonnaise. Carl had the Filetto Al Pepe Verde E Pane Grigliato, or, Beef filet with green peppers sauce. Carl’s beef was literally like butter melting in your mouth and our cod tempura was so light it was nearly translucent! The cod was absolutely glistening and seasoned to perfection! We all left full and immensely satisfied!
Back “home” for another episode of Drops of God and off to bed excited (for real this time!) for our pasta cooking class.
Arrivederci until next time!
Bev
Click any image below to view full screen • Navigate with arrow keys or swipe
Approaching the village of Settignano
On the morning of my birthday, Monte and I set out on a 2km walk from our villa to the village of Settignano. The temperature was perfect as we wandered down ancient lanes and through old olive groves, with Florence spread out below us in the valley, partially hidden in the morning mist.
Our route took us past several villas, including the magnificent Villa Gamberaia. This Renaissance masterpiece, with its cloistered courtyard and grand architecture, once hosted Prince Napoleon III.
We found our way to Bar Latteria Tre A, situated in Settignano's main piazza, facing the Church of Santa Maria Assunta. The church has stood at the heart of village life since the 12th century, with its current structure dating to 1518—just as Michelangelo was making a name for himself. The bar proved to be the perfect breakfast stop, with four cappuccinos and several fresh pastries costing less than 10 euros—a satisfying reward after our morning expedition through the Tuscan countryside.
The walk back up the hill was another story entirely. By the time we reached our villa, we looked like we'd fallen into the Arno but feeling better about those pastries (and the 30+ hours of travel still lingering in our systems). On later visits for breakfast and to fetch morning treats for Bev and Patricia, we opted to drive—though "drive" might be generous considering the careful maneuvering required through streets so narrow we had to fold in our mirrors to preserve the rental car's dignity.
What makes this little borgo fascinating is its artistic legacy. Settignano produced an impressive roster of Renaissance sculptors, including Desiderio da Settignano and the Gamberini brothers (known as Bernardo and Antonio Rossellino). Even Michelangelo lived here with a sculptor and his wife in what's now called "Villa Michelangelo." His father owned one of the local marble quarries—convenient for a budding artist.
But one of Settignano's most notable admirers was Mark Twain, who spent nine months at Villa Viviani from 1892 to 1893. During his stay, he wrote 1,800 pages, including a first draft of Pudd'nhead Wilson. I’m certain the view helped!
Standing there that morning, watching the mist lift over Florence, I had to agree. Some views are worth both the climb and the occasional challenge of navigating those impossibly narrow streets.
Florence, as viewed from the Villa’s pool at twilight.
